To find a rabbitry you can look online on classifieds or in rabbit magazines. Many times if you have friends who have rabbits you can find a rabbitry through them. Pick one that knows about their rabbits and rabbit keeping, keeps their rabbits in top condition, has clean cages and good sanitation in general. Of course, a rabbitry with a good sales policy that guarantees you get a happy, healthy bun is nice, always ask about sales policies.

 

You can find a shelter through classifieds, on the news or through the internet. I'd use the shelter for pet rabbits--not breeding stock.

 

Remember! Rabbits generally are NOT a child's pet. They can scratch, bite, kick and usually aren't as "cuddly" as people think.

 

 

Pick out rabbits that look healthy and in good condition for age and breed. Check any rabbits over for immediate faults and DQ's if you're looking for a show bun, for a breeding bun look for rabbits with good type and no bad traits (like for Californians, a rabbit with a white under-side on their tail is a no-no for breeding). For a pet bun, just look for a happy, healthy rabbit.

 

Check for any vent disease, any nasal/eye discharge, straight/even teeth that look about the right length, also check for any cuts or ear canker.

 

When picking out a breeding pair/trio/quartet make sure you match the animals that are weak in one spot to an rabbit strong in that spot.

 

Please, do not buy a rabbit under six weeks! They should be weaned at seven or eight weeks...taking an animal home before this can stress the animal and it may not flourish as it would left with it's mother.

 

 

When you bring home your rabbit, give him some feed and water and let him be for a while until he is used to his new home.

 

 

Some people suggest 1/4 cup per three pounds, others suggest one once per pound. I use 1/4 cup per three pounds. The ultimate decision is based on your rabbit's breed, find the ideal weight and adjust feed so your rabbit weighs that when it is mature. Feed your rabbit unlimited pellets until it is breeding age (five months for small breeds, six for medium and eight for giant breeds).

 

Provide alfalfa hay (unless you feed alfalfa pellets, then feed grass or timothy) until your rabbit is six months old, eight months for giant breeds. After six months (or eight) provide unlimited grass or timothy hay.

 

When your doe is pregnant, gradually increase feed by 1/4 cup after the 14th day of pregnancy. After kindling increase feed by another 1/4 to 1/2 cup. These are just guidelines, each doe will be different, adjust feed amount so that your doe mantains the best weight for her breed.  

 

 

When your doe is the correct breeding age you can put her in the buck's pen (not the other way around, does generally are more territorial). I'd recommend breeding her to a buck that is excelling in her faults and is the same breed. Watch the whole time so you know when she is bred. When the buck has done his job he will often grunt and fall off her backwards or sideways. Let him breed her once more and take her out. Eight to ten hours later, put the doe in with the buck and let them mate again.

 

 

Wait until the doe is 14 days pregnant before you palpate. Place the doe on a table facing you. Put your right hand on her scruff and use your left hand to feel her lower abdomen. If you can feel little "marbels" she is pregnant. I've found that when you can start to feel the babies kicking you in her stomach she is going to kindle in a day or two.

 

Gestation is 31 days, put the nest box in on the 27th day. Make sure the nest box opening isn't too low the babies fall out or too high and she bangs herself on the board and developes mastitis.

 

 

Before your rabbit kindles she will make a nest out of hay or straw in the nest box. If it is chilly outside, give her lots of materials, if it is VERY warm give her very little to work with. Check the kits soon after birth, remove the dead and cull peanut/max factor kits (they won't live long anyways). Reward mommy with some fruit or some other type of treat, she did good!  Your doe will only feed the kits two or three times a day, don't be alarmed if you never see her feeding them. Check the next day to see if their bellies are full and round. If their bellies are tiny, shriveled or wrinkly, you may need to flip your doe onto her back and place the kits on her to feed.

 

Occasionally your doe may go through a false pregnancy and act like she is pregnant but produce no kits. This can be avoided by palpating properly. Rebreed the doe. 

 

 

At three weeks (maybe sooner in hot weather) you can take out the nest box and provide the buns with kit-sized mangers full of alfafa hay (any hay is good, though) and hoppers full of unlimited rabbit food.

 

At seven to eight weeks you can wean the babies from their mother. Put all the bucks in one cage and all the does in another.

 

Feed them as much feed as they'll eat until breeding age. At breeding age stop using alfalfa and switch to timothy or grass hay. Also at breeding age, seperate all does and bucks from one another, they may fight and the does will need seperate cages for when they are pregnant anyways.

 

 

Finally, locate a rabbit-savvy vet. Be sure to spend time with your buns taming them and exercising them occasionally.

 

 

See under "Goat Information" for more information on tattooing. But tattoo in the left ear  only--right ear is for a registration number. Use same size tattoo pliers. Tattoo what ever you feel like putting in their ear (see Silent Creek Rabbitry for more information on what you can put in their ear. )